After leaving La Paz, I headed south to the town of Todos Santos. It was recommended to me as a nice place to visit. It was pretty touristy with all sorts of shops catering to art and jewelery. I wandered around, had some great tacos, went to a cafe and talked to the owner about places to camp. He suggested the fisherman’s beach on the south side of town. I headed there, and spent the night. With the exception of one permanent resident (and his pack of dogs), I was the only one on the beach.
In the morning, I spotted some grey whales swimming very close to shore. I watched them for a while and then spotted some craziness with the fishermen. They bring their boats back on shore by riding the surf. I made a short video capturing the feat.
I hit the road for Cabo San Lucas, out of curiosity I suppose. Once there, it had all the trappings of a touristy resort town. Lots of shops, bars, and beaches crowded with vendors selling all sorts of things, from jewelery, Cuban cigars, marijuana, excursions for diving, parasaling, etc, and time shares. In the photo, everyone wearing a white shirt is a vendor—the covered the beach like fiddler crabs.
Hitting the road to find a better place to hang out, I went to the Cabo San Lucas public beach. It was small, quieter, much nicer, and best of all, I wasn’t hounded by anyone wanting gringo dollars.
A local named Carlos recommended my next stop, Los Barriles. Once I arrived, it also had many of the signs of a touristy place, with signs referring to East Cape everywhere. I wandered around a bit and came to the kite surfers’ beach. I talked with a few and they said that the entire beach is free for camping, so I set up camp. That night, my final night in Baja, the stars were spectacular. After gazing for a few hours, the moon slowly rose out of the water. After a little trial and error, I finally figured out how to take nice night shots with my camera, but by then the moon had risen a bit.
I had to make it to La Paz to take the ferry to Mazatlan. I decided to take the back road, since I had time to kill. After about 10 miles of typical secondary roads – lined with potholes and cows, the road turned to washboardy dirt. After a few miles traveling at no more than 30mph, the road started getting worse and worse. It finally turned into a 4×4 trail, impassable in my car. At that point, I had to turn around and punish my car again on the same roads.
On the main highway, I found what is probably tied for the best road of the trip; around the town of San Antonio. The other road is Hwy 1 in California from Leggett to the ocean. What made it so nice was there were no potholes, hardly any straight sections, and great scenery.